Curl Defining Cream No. 1069
Rich conditioning. Curl definition. Frizz control. All in a streamlined formula.
Curl creams have a fairly demanding job: provide enough conditioning and smoothing to support definition and manageability without sacrificing body and movement.
Curl Defining Cream No. 1069 takes a streamlined approach, building the formula around a concentrated conditioning base with targeted additions for moisture, shine, and frizz control.
On the Bench
Formulation No. 1069 is an opaque, white cream with a finished viscosity of 25,000–35,000 cP and a pH of 4.5–5.0.
This formula is approximately 90% biobased with an estimated NOI of 0.90 and NOC of 98.9%.
The curl-defining system features Cola®Lac SLB, Cola®Quat Q80, and Colonial BetaNat. Together, these ingredients create a rich conditioning cream designed to support hydration, shine, and frizz control without heavy buildup.
Why It Works
At the center of No. 1069 is Cola®Lac SLB, a conditioning concentrate based on Cetearyl Alcohol and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate. The Cetearyl Alcohol helps build the cream’s viscosity and structure, while the cationic conditioning component provides affinity for the hair fiber but does not build up on hair. The robust emulsification ability of Cola®Lac SLB also supports incorporation of 3% coconut oil used in the formula.
Cola®Quat Q80, a substantive silicone quat, complements the primary conditioning base and is intended to enhance combability, shine, and frizz control.
Colonial BetaNat, a 100% plant-based betaine, acts as a powerful osmolyte to help support moisture balance and hair elasticity, making hair more flexible and resistant to breakage. It is intended to enhance overall bounce, body, and strength.
The result is an efficient curl-defining system in which the primary structure and conditioning is provided by Cola®Lac SLB, while the lower-level additions refine the moisture and sensory profile without unnecessary formula complexity.
Formulator Notes
The viscosity specification of 25,000 – 35,000 cP allows for a pumpable product with a substantial cream texture. Viscosity is built with Cola®Lac SLB. Richness and emollience is further enhanced with Cola®Quat Q80, Colonial BetaNat, and coconut oil.
The pH specification of 4.5 – 5.0 supports the performance of the cationic conditioning system and is appropriate for a leave-in hair product.
Processing is relatively straightforward with no need for a separately prepared oil phase or a homogenization step. The water-soluble Cola®Quat Q80 and Colonial BetaNat are dispersed in water before the batch is heated to 70–75°C. Cola®Lac SLB and coconut oil and then added, and the batch is mixed until the solids are fully melted and the emulsion is uniform. Preservative and fragrance are added during cooldown blow 50°C.
The Formula Girls Take
Formulation No. 1069 keeps the process simple and the ingredient list short while delivering a thoughtfully layered conditioning system.
Both time and resources are saved by using a concentrated blend and a single-phase heated process.
Furthermore, using the Cola®Lac SLB as both the structural and conditioning foundation leaves room in the ingredient list for a few targeted additions that shape the final performance of the cream without requiring a more complicated emulsification system.
For a ten-ingredient formula, there is quite a bit happening in the finished cream.
Take It Back to the Lab
Want to dig into the percentages and process? Check out the complete Formulation No. 1069 for the full formula, specifications, and procedure.
You can also take a closer look at Cola®Lac SLB, Cola®Quat Q80, and Colonial BetaNat to explore the featured chemistries behind this conditioning system.
